A Bread & Butter Pudding Fit For (My) Dad…

Sibling rivalry - it can either bother you or spur you on. I prefer my rivalries (not that I have, well, any really) to spur me on. I recently turned the page on another year in the life of me (41, in case you were wondering), and although there are few things in life that I regret, one is that my Dad, whom I love and cherish, prefers the Bread and Butter Pudding my sister used to make over my far more elaborate incarnations of it.

There are few things that set my heart racing as much as custard. Yes, I am sure that the heightened velocity of my heart rate isn’t a sign of increasing levels of cholesterol, thank you very much. No, rather there is no other edible item I choose to indulge in that gives rise to feelings of comfort, nostalgia and luxury in equal measure and concurrence as the viscous mixture of eggs, cream and sugar. I don’t think that this magic concoction is given half as much praise as it should.

A Bread & Butter Pudding Fit For (My) Dad…

Sibling rivalry – it can either bother you or spur you on. I prefer my rivalries (not that I have, well, any really) to spur me on. I recently turned the page on another year in the life of me (41, in case you were wondering), and although there are few things in life that I regret, one is that my Dad, whom I love and cherish, prefers the Bread and Butter Pudding my sister used to make over my far more elaborate incarnations of it.

My Bread & Pudding Pudding is Better than Your Bread & Butter Pudding… nuh!

The Bread and Butter Pudding that is the stuff of my fathers fondest memories consists of several slices of Wonder Bread lashed with MARGARINE of all god foresaken things, not butter; a few shriveled raisins thrown about and amongst the neatly arranged slices, doused in milk, sprinkled with sugar and left to transmutate into something capable of captivating a fully grown man who should know better for longer than is necessary.

Meanwhile, in the Land of Great Taste and Incredible Ingredients, I soldier on with my once a year preparation of Bread & Butter Pudding. It has to be just once a year because while I prefer my version to have better ingredients, it also comes with a hefty calorific price tag so it is prudent to limits one’s consumption and self control in that regard.

First of all, the Wonder Bread is gone and in its place is Brioche. Any kind of well made Brioche will suffice, but for this recipe I used an Almond & Raisin Brioche with an Apricot Glaze (it is apricot season after all!)

Second of all, Margarine, which has never seen the inside of any kitchen I’ve ever owned, makes way for unsalted butter. Then comes the Apricot Preserve. I use Folláin preserves because they are traditional family recipes and they do not use added sugar, so it means you get all the fruity sweetness of the jam without the cloying artifice.

Next comes the most important part of the whole show (aside from the bread): watery milk is gone in exchange for a simple Creme Anglaise – a loose custard that is heady with vanilla, but loose and pourable enough to saturate the bread. This is important because after buttering and jamming the bread, stacking the slices in an orderly fashion and pouring over the untuous Creme Anglaise, the whole thing must be covered and set aside for up to an hour so that the bread can soak up the liquid.

This important step means that when you do bake your Bread & Pudding Pudding it will puff up like a souffle – rich, luxurious yet light and fluffy!

Here is the full ingredients list and method. A Bread & Butter Pudding Fit for a Dad – my Dad to be precise… Happy Fathers’ Day to the most brilliant and strong Dad I could have ever hoped for!

Ingredients:

  • One loaf of Brioche – any kind: plain, with raisins or chocolate
  • Unsalted Butter, soft enough to spread easily on the bread without tearing;
  • Apricot Jam / Conserve;
  • Apricot Brandy – enough to sufficiently douse without breaking the law;
  • Flaked Almonds.
  • For the Creme Anglaise:
  • 250ml double cream
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 60 g demerara sugar
  • 1/2 tbsp Vanilla Bean Paste

Method:

  • Slice Brioche into evenly thick slices, butter and jam generously on one side.
  • Arrange in a 25cm baking dish (or whatever you have that’s closest to that size).
  • Sprinkle over the Apricot Brandy – be generous but not overly excitable with the application of it! Scatter the flaked almonds with wild abandon.
  • Meanwhile make the Creme Anglaise by whisking together the sugar and egg yolks in a bowl, set aside.
  • Place the creme into a heavy bottom saucepan and warm slowly over the heat until you start to see small bubble forming around the side but be careful not to boil. Take off the heat and allow to cool just for a minute or so.
  • Pour a little of the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture and whisk vigorously. Then the egg mix back into the warm cream, add the vanilla bean paste and whisk to combine.
  • Place the saucepan back on a low heat and stir continuously until it just begins to thicken enough to coat the back of a spoon lightly.
  • Take off the heat and pour all over the bread. Cover with tin foil and allow to stand for up to an hour, although any amount of time will help with absorption.
  • When ready, heat the oven to 180 degrees, and bake covered until the bread has puffed up and the custard has set.
  • Take out of the oven, allow to cool for a few moments, then serve with a little shake of icing sugar, and a small dollop of freshly whipped cream flavoured with some more of the Apricot Brandy.

And… ENJOY!

For the Love of Custard

There are few things that set my heart racing as much as custard. Yes, I am sure that the heightened velocity of my heart rate isn’t a sign of increasing levels of cholesterol, thank you very much. No, rather there is no other edible item I choose to indulge in that gives rise to feelings of comfort, nostalgia and luxury in equal measure and concurrence as the viscous mixture of eggs, cream and sugar. I don’t think that this magic concoction is given half as much praise as it should.

Granted, my first encounters with custard were less than inspiring. I all too clearly remember the brown, yellow and pink varieties served up with dessert at school meals vaguely tasting of chocolate, banana and “mysterious pink” respectively, covered with a thick skin and served at temperatures only previously experienced inside an erupting volcano. At home, I long believed that custard was made from powder added to hot milk, fluorescent yellow in colour. If you fancied yourself going up in the world, you had it ready made. If you were properly posh, you forked out for Ambrosia.

That was the extent of my childhood experiences with custard, until one glorious day when I tasted my first ever Custard Slice. Thick set crème patisserie between two slices of flaky puffed pastry and topped with soft royal icing that glued your fingers as it was held and devoured. Such bliss.

I remember the first time I ever ate a mini egg custard tart, complete with nutmeg grated on top. In my teenage years, I used to work a Saturday job at the restaurant inside Littlewoods Department Store in Bristol. One of my duties, which I cherished, was plating the desserts. Any cakes that were not bought by the end of service would be given to the staff to eat else they were binned. Secretly, I used to always plate up a few extra custard tart slices so I’d stand a pretty good chance of bagging myself a slice at the end of my shift. I literally would not be able to stop thinking about it all day long.

Fast forward to 2014 when I first tasted something that looked suspiciously like a custard tart encased in buttery puff pastry but called “Pastéis de Nata” in Lettercollum Kitchen Project, Clonakilty. They were warm, having only just come out of the oven. That first bite was the equivalent of all my Christmasses, Birthday’s, Summer Holidays and a huge lottery jackpot all arriving at the same time. Where did these come from? What spells were cast to make such delicious morsels? Turns out, Pastéis de Nata are the national dish of Portugal (OK, slight exaggeration, but if I were Queen of Portugal I would totally make that happen). Still, ever since I have been trying to engineer a situation where I would happily find myself in Portugal, but it didn’t happen until 2016….

In February last year, I took a quick five-day break in Portugal. I had (at least) four mini Pastéis de Nata for my breakfast, every single day! Sometimes, gluttony is such a good thing. That said, I might wait a bit before I get the old cholesterol tested – know what I mean?

I am more than happy to admit my obsession with this dreamy sweet yellow liquid. If were so allowed to choose my last meal, it would be a 15 course extravaganza of custard in different forms. So allow me to enlighten you with a summary of what I have learned about one true love (don’t tell Mr Flavour will you?) in my “Miscellany of Custard”

The One, True Custard:
Colour depends on the eggs used, but should be bright yellow, thick yet pourable. Probably the best thing ever invented by the English. Probably.

Crème Anglaise:
Pale yellow, thinner and runnier than the English version. French origin, sweeter and often flavoured with vanilla.

Baked Custard:
A traditional thick custard, baked in the oven to set. Includes: traditional Egg Custard Tarts (UK); Pastéis de Nata (Portugal, Spain and Greece all have variations); Crème Bruleé and Crème Caramel (France) also Flan (Spain, Portugal, Mexico).

Crème Patisserie:
A thickened, fresh custard that isn’t baked but can hold its shape because of the introduction of flour or other starch and is used most frequently with cakes and other patisserie. Used in custard slices, doughnuts, choux buns, éclairs etc.

There are many other variations across the world, from steamed custard in Asia to Zabaione in Italy and of course not forgetting savoury custards used in quiches, although I prefer to stick to the sweet versions, please and thank you!

So there you have it. As the saying goes, when life gives you eggs – make custard.
OK I may have made that up, but with Easter just around the corner it is a perfect time to indulge in a spot of custard making with beautiful local, free range eggs. Experiment with flavouring your custard with citrus fruits; seasonal rhubarb; spices and flavoured sugar syrups. It’s a lot more interesting than eating chocolate eggs or hunting for brightly painted empty ones in the garden that’s for sure!

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